In March 2012, Tom and I are catching the cargo ship ‘Natalie Schulte’ across the 2623 kilometer ditch that separates Melbourne and Auckland. It will take eight days. Apart from feeling a need to live out the opening credits of The Wire season two while also being unable to text, email or even pigeon for over a week, we want to see if we can travel to NZ without using planes.
The quick answer is: yes, you can, we will, but it takes some organising …
When catching a cargo ship from, say, Melbourne to Auckland, you need to be prepared for a few things:
1. A cargo ship is not a plane.
2. Finding a cargo ship isn’t easy.
3. A cargo ship is stupidly expensive.
4. A cargo ship takes a long time to get from where it came from to where it’s going to.
1. A cargo ship is not a plane
A cargo ship is bigger and better and more wonderfully obscure than a plane. I contacted about 10 different shipping companies and had email discussions with seven before settling on a big, red ship through Hamburg Sud.
‘But why go to New Zealand,’ asked one cargo ship booking agent, ‘when you could go to Philadelphia via the Panama Canal and Jamaica?’ Why not indeed?
Getting a ticket for a smaller leg (Melb to Auckland) on a cargo ship is more difficult than for longer legs. Shipping companies would generally prefer to sell the whole ticket (from Melbourne to Philly, for example) than a ‘shorter’ trip (only eight days? Heck, in my day we …). Generally for shorter legs they will only allow you to book one month in advance of the departure date in case they can sell the ticket to someone for a longer leg. In the end, Tom and I settled for two single cabins, which was all they had left.
2. Finding a cargo ship isn’t easy.
For ships departing from Melbourne (or other parts of Australia or New Zealand), try contacting the following companies. They’re all responsive, availableish and travel through the Asia Pacific:
Globoship: http://www.globoship.ch/ (for a translation of this Swiss site, type ‘Globoship’ into Google and translate the page) or contact them on info@globoship.ch
Hamburg Sud: http://www.hamburgsud.com/group/en/corporatehome/ contact sandra.santo@hamburgsued-reiseagentur.de
Freighter expeditions: http://www.freighterexpeditions.com.au/ contact jrichards@freighterexpeditions.com.au
CMA CGM: http://www.cma-cgm.com/WorldwideNetwork/Agencies/AgencyList.aspx?PageMethod=InitializeParameters&Country=11 contact ho.maubert@cma-cgm.com
Freighter travel NZ: http://www.freightertravel.co.nz/
3. A cargo ship is stupidly expensive.
For travel on a cargo ship you’re looking at between AUD 100 – AUD 150 per day, possibly more, which includes a cabin and meals. If you think of it as a trip to Bali, without the massages, knickknacks and cultural cringe (at seeing yourself reflected in mind-numbingly idiotic tourists), then this price becomes more reasonable. It’s like Bali in the middle of the ocean with a whole bunch of shipping containers!
Our ship has offered us two cabins: ‘petty officer’, which means you get carpet and a view un-obscured by containers; and ‘rating 415’, which means you don’t. We get three meals a day that we share with the sailors. This sounds sexy but may not be. We’ve been advised that two of the meals (breakfast and lunch) are hot and that there will be ‘cold cuts’. Unless that’s a euphemism we think it really just means ‘cold cuts’. You also get taken from and to your destination, though not with a guarantee on the dates and not without 20+ pages of documentation signing away any responsibility should the ship not make it.
Taking a cargo ship means that on top of any visas, vaccinations and insurance (compulsory, including repatriation insurance should you die!) means going to the doctor and getting a medical check, scanning passports and agreeing to never, ever take hard liquor onto to the ship (the glory days of sailor’s rum is over, thus our conclusion that ’cold cuts’ means ‘cold cuts’.).
On the up side, we have to this date nor seen a single mention of luggage (except that it shouldn’t contain rum) which we have taken to mean that we can fill and entire shipping container full of really heavy books to read on the ship.
4. A cargo ship takes a long time to get from where it came from to where it’s going to.
Eight days from Melbourne to New Zealand. Fourteen days from Melbs to Singapore. Thirty-five from Melb to Philadelphia. In the era of plane travel this seems idiotic, as would the above, prohibitively expensive prices. However, for writers it’s a floating residency. In a world where plane travel is impossible, as is the world for many people (who can’t get visas/can’t afford it and so, obviously, wouldn’t take the ship either) and for me (enforced one year without flight), you just make room for it. We only became to busy not to take planes when planes entered our lives. The time is still there. It’s like a relationship you’re too busy for, you just move all the stuff aside, wriggle a little and suddenly you have a 1200 tonne cargo ship called Natalie in your life.
Some other notes about cargo travel
• We have been advised to bring ‘deck clothes and shoes’ because of the ‘soot’ (where does the ‘soot’ come from? Is this a steam ship?!).
• There is a swimming pool and gym. The pool is, obviously, filled with salt water. But when the ship is in port we have been warned not to swim in it because of the charcoal (it is a steam ship!!)
• We are buying suction caps so we can stick down our stuff during the swell.
• Ginger is apparently good for seasickness. We’ll ask the sailors.
• They’re probably not called sailors, rather, ‘crew’.
• We are advised that we must perform emergency training practice procedures with the crew. We’re not sure if this will be sexy or not.
• For an amazing article not about cargo travel (but about travelling on ships) see David Foster Wallace’s ‘A supposedly fun thing I’ll never do again‘.
Meg Mundell
2 February, 2012
Hi guys. This sounds SOOOO exciting! One tip, from experience: take a good supply *stick-on* anti-seasickness patches — not just tablets. I came to Australia on a small boat and the seasickness was completely out of control, couldn’t even hold tablets down. Good way to lose massive amounts of weight, or end up half-dead on an IV drip (not that either of you needs to do either of these things). Hopefully a cargo ship will be much steadier, being heaps bigger than a little yacht. And hopefully you have better sea-legs than me, but worth packing anyway, they don’t take up much room. Bon voyage, kids! Hope you see dolphins. x
flightlessness
2 February, 2012
Meg! THANK YOU! I’m planning on taking every single sea sickness thingamebob available. I had no idea there were patches! I knew a girl who used to put nicotine patches on her nipples, claiming they were more effective that way. New look for the ship? xx
Meg
23 March, 2012
Hey me old salts! Ye crusty sea-dogs! Did you make it across the ditch safely? Visiting folks in Whangarei and the wharfies strike has been on TV lots. Also a giant storm blasted the hell out of Northland — I thought of you, and hoped your wee nautical hats were not blown askew! PS: the book about traveling on cargo ships and visiting ports, which I was telling Laura about while the Dolphin was foaming up the dancefloor, was written by a friend of mine some years ago, Thornton McAmish. Haven’t read it but he’s a superb writer, so might be worth looking for. Was a Lonely Planet publication, but not a travel guidebook, more creative non-fiction I think. xx
flightlessness
23 March, 2012
Oh Meg you’re a wonder! I write this from dry land with many many thanks for reminding me about Thornton! And what a title ‘Super Cargo’! I’m going to get me briny flippers on it as soon as I am able! xx Laura p.s. We sailed right into the storm but compared to what Bass Strait had for us – glass shattering, chair flipping, poltergeist-like DVD throwing swells – it was rather refreshing. Amazing, though, to be traveling along next to the North Island and being unable to see it for rain! xx
Andre
2 February, 2012
Wow – this sounds incredible! I remember looking into cargo ship travel a couple of years ago and being thrown by the prices (rather naively I also looked into working for my passage but it seems they don’t need so many coal shovellers these days, even if they are steam ships). But it’s definitely something I’d re-consider when I have a big chunk of time and a major project on my hands.
Oh and if DFW is accurate, cruise shipping sounds much, much more frightening than travelling as freight…
flightlessness
2 February, 2012
Hell yes Andre, in a battle between a freighter and a cruise liner, the freighter would sink that ship for sure! I hope you do end up traveling cargo some day. I’ll be blogging about it (when we have signal!) so you can see how it goes.
Danielle Diamond
24 May, 2015
What if the storm is really bad and the load shifts. I am frightened but need to get back home to Italy. Flying is totally out of the question. We took just over one month to come to Sydney in 1968 but I haven’t gone back for the fear.
Ana Hislop
2 February, 2012
Darling! I spent 10 days on the Spirit of Adventure with my students in the Marlborough Sounds. It was very calm but the Cook Straight crossing was rough. I can swear by the homeopathic sea sickness remedy. My students dubbed it homo-pathetic remedy. But definitely try it. Good luck you crazy kids! Love your work.
flightlessness
5 March, 2012
Homopathic remedy it is! Thank you – you may save our stomachs! x
Tom Doig
6 February, 2012
I was getting my anti-seasickness medication prescription filled at the pharmacy yesterday (Prochlorperazine, sounds trippy but apparently isn’t), and the pharmacist said, “Cargo boats? Yeah I’m planning to do that … what with climate change and all, boat travel is the way of the future. Again.”
Someone is going to make 100s of millions of $$$ on ethical mid-priced party boats from Aus to Asia and the Pacific. probably Richard Branson …
Laura Jean McKay
7 February, 2012
“Boat travel is the way of the future. Again.” I think that’s our tagline for the Doig-McKay-Branson contiki-container cruises!
sab
14 February, 2012
Hi… Just found your post when searching for Natalie Schulte. I sailed on the MV Natalie Schulte with my partner in the Owner’s Cabin in November last year from Melbourne to Oakland… 27 days. Was an awesome voyage! BTW the ship is green not red 😉 Breakfast is the normal museli / cereal or you can order eggs and bacon. Lunch and dinner are always hot meals… meat and vege and always soup with lunch. Food is OK, not high quality but more than enough to keep you full. Be prepared for very rough seas between Melbourne and Adelaide and then back to NZ. We had 45 knot winds and 12 metre waves. You can check out my FLICKr for pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/avalynii_sab/collections/72157628509779065/
Enjoy the voyage.
sab
George Dixon
20 February, 2012
Hi, Enjoyed your letter & other comments. I’m booked to depart from Sydney in early May going to Oakland on the Natalie Schulte. I wondered about taking advantage of the dvd player in the cabin, can you tell me what region dvds it plays (I would assume it is either region 2 or 4) ?
How/where did you buy credits for the email via satellite ?
Thanks, George
flightlessness
5 March, 2012
Hi George, thanks for reading! I don’t know the answer to your question but I bet Sab in the comment below would! Good luck and have a fantastic trip!! Laura
sab
14 February, 2012
Forgot to say that they do have email on board for all crew / passengers that works via satellite. Just bring a laptop or iphone and hook up wirelessly. You will need to buy a $10 credits as 1 text based email is 0.08 cents to send… and the same to receive a text based email. No internet access at all though.
You can read more about my voyage on the Natalie Schulte here: http://www.freighterexpeditions.com.au/a-cruise-on-the-natalie-schulte
sab
sab
14 February, 2012
Me again sorry! Yes you can take liquor on board all fine. I took some bourbon and scotch on to enjoy. No one checks the bags and there would be no big deal in having it. Even some of the crew have bottles of vodka. I think they meant you can’t buy liquor onboard… but they do have cheap wines (red and white) at $3 a bottle and a slab of beers for about $16 you can purchase from the slop chest.
You can take up to about 100kg each for luggage but be careful as you will need to carry all your luggage up 6 flights of stairs when you come on board and then down the same when disembarking as there is no lift on board.
Oh and she is around 25,000 tonnes not 1,200 tonnes 😉 Her max weight including a full cargo component is close to 42,000 tonnes.
sab
flightlessness
14 February, 2012
Sab, THANK YOU! This is absolutely amazing. We couldn’t have wished for a better insight into the intriguing, mysterious and downright exciting container adventure we’re about to have! Great advice on how rough it will be, food and crew, thanks! If you have any more thoughts, please don’t hesitate to post: all welcome! One thing that is astounding me (apart from the actual weight of Natalie – what a big lady!!) is that the ship goes from Melbourne to Auckland VIA ADELAIDE?! We had no idea … It seems like such a back track! Thanks again! Laura
sab
14 February, 2012
No worries at all, am happy to share our voyage as would love to go again one day. The soot you mention is just carbon build up in the funnel as they use a very low grade (cheap) bunker oil as fuel. This bunker oil is so thick (like molasses) they have to heat it up to get it on board, and then keep it heated at 80˚C so it can be pumped in to use as fuel in the big diesel engine. It is most prominent upon leaving port as the engine has just been “idling” when in port and the carbon builds up, so when the engine revs are increased to leave the buildup of carbon shoots out the funnel. Big flakes of it end up everywhere. Ask to see the engine room as well… fascinating.
You can visit the bridge any time as well and the crew and officers are very hospitable.
Yes the ship will go to Adelaide first before Auckland as it is part of a big loop it does between the west coast USA and Australia. Ports of call in order are: Melbourne, Adelaide, Auckland, Papeete, Ensenada, Oakland, Seattle, Vancouver, Long Beach, Tauranga NZ, then Sydney and back to start again.
Let me know if you have any questions as happy to answer.
sab
misskellylee
23 February, 2012
In other seaside crossing, my friend beth sometimes caught a luxury yacht to NZ from Vauatu and had the gloriously luxury of making curry with fresh caught fish and hand grated coconut milk.
you inspire me.
have fun!
x
flightlessness
5 March, 2012
Wow Ms Lee! I may have to ask you more about that friend. This merchant ship bizzo is ‘spensive! xx
bethsometimes
23 February, 2012
hey there! in other weird coincidences, all of my earthly possessions were returned to me in new zealand last month on board the natalie schulte. luxury yacht hitching was only $20 per day and had a lot of perks. i read ‘the multi-orgasmic man’ in it’s entirety from a horizontal position and spent a lot of time sleeping due to sea sickness pills. i vomited twice only, while watching the labyrinth on a big screen 1000 nautical miles outta NZ.
i think a lot is to be gained by ACTUALLY HANGING OUT on wharfs rather than doing ones research on the internet and phone (as I did from Alice Springs). I’ve often wondered if a mostached cargo captain would let one travel for free (or near offer) if you had yr bag and were ready to go from a prone position on a wharf someplace. more to learn but i’ve had it with the sea for now.
http://www.bruisecruisefestival.com/ this looks cool too! i reckon a trans tasman festival on a boat would be amazing.
good luck for your adventure! beth sometimes
flightlessness
5 March, 2012
Hey Beth! Given the amount of ships trailing through the sea that is one amazing coincidence!! Hope all your stuff arrived in one piece. We talked and talked about hanging out on the docks with our thumbs out but in the end the cozy desk won. I’ll certainly be asking a lot of questions on board about cheapo return options. There’ll be updates a plenty after the trip so stay tuned. x
anne
10 March, 2012
I guess the clear night sky has tonight’s huge moon lighting the sea surface silver. I hope the flightlessness ones are dodging all that soot as they linger on the moonlit desk resplendent in their deck clothes and shoes.
flightlessness
23 March, 2012
Stunningly calm most of the way. Thanks for chatting with the weather for us, Ma!
benj
16 March, 2012
arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
flightlessness
23 March, 2012
Me hearrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrty!
linda
21 November, 2012
Do u know if u need a valid australian visa when leaving oz to get to nz if ur just planning to go from nz onwards to other countries and not return to oz again? My friends passport is valid but the visa for australia hasnt ended but might be ending soon..just not sure she will be able to escape a horrible boss that is wrong on so many levels in time of hre visa expiry date. He doenst pay her anything at all either and she is having troubles escaping the job without threats. just trying to plan trips cause I want to take her from australia onwards so she still enjoys her travels. we would have nz visas sorted just not sure her visa from australia will still be valid. But because were leaving the country will it matter? . This cargo ship sounds like an amazing experience too! any help would be wonderful. thanks
jo
15 March, 2013
I done seven freighter voyages, including a 3 month trip around the world. Beats a cruise ship by miles!!
mens leather travel bags
16 July, 2013
That is very interesting, You are an excessively skilled blogger.
I’ve joined your rss feed and look forward to searching for more of your excellent post. Also, I have shared your web site in my social networks
Jack Madison
5 April, 2014
I have done this four times.
San Francisco to Honolulu (pacific)
Cape Town S.A. to Rio de Janeiro (atlantic)
Barcelona to Athens (mediterranean)
Colombo Sri Lanka to Mombasa Kenya (indian)
And I was part of an Expedition in the Arctic Ocean as a young lad with my Uncle when large companies used to hire his ship to explore. We live in Seattle and I grew up running through the forests and kayaking all around the San Juan Islands.
After I did it the first time I told myself I had to do it on every ocean. I still have the southern ocean to contend with but the only thing I’ve found thus far are government, science and fishing ships. I have been in contact with various organizations but it appears I’m going to have to get a job on one of them in order to “join the fun.”
I won’t do a fishing ship and I would never be able to be part of a government vessel so that leaves Science.
I’ve been trying to get my foot in the door for about 18 months and I am making progress. I am a wilderness guide and more and more they are hiring individuals to be “emergency personnel” on all types of ships. I qualify for all positions along those lines but you have to be “in the know” and have connections. It’s like trying to get a job as a bartender at a really nice establishment. You gotta know somebody.
I’m writing this April 5th and I have my eye on two expeditions that may or may not have interest in me. Luckily I’m 46 and ‘tenure of life’ goes a long way with the people who run things.
The excitement rolls on as Jack tries desperately to kill himself on the high seas!
flightlessness
22 September, 2014
Jack – I’m sorry for the delay in my response. Travel got the better of me and I caught a nasty tropical illness (or, rather, the mosquito caught me) so have been out of action. Hope are you going getting your foot in the ship’s door?